The Engine

As I mentioned before, the engine has been open to the elements with the rocker cover off for many years. Even so it came apart without too much effort. Externally the cases are white with alloy corrosion and the cylinder and head are very rusty.

 

Externally the head has one broken fin and the exhaust threads are badly eroded. It was soaked in diesel and the inlet rocker removed. The exhaust rocker spindle is seized immovably in the rocker. The rocker is badly pitted and it would be unsafe to reuse it in its weakened state as even good ones are prone to break if the exhaust valve nips up. Another job for the angle grinder although you would need to be hard pressed to use a head in this condition.

 

 

 

The cylinder is rusty with some paint still adhering but  as it is cast iron the rust is not deep. The bore looks ok and came with a +40 slipper piston, the normal type of piston for a 1951 engine. The cylinder and piston could be reused.

 

The crankcase has clearly been full of water for a long time as there are tide marks on both halves and on the flywheels. The timing case was full of sludge and the half compression parts are rusted solid. The cam is a bit pitted although the timing gears look reusable. The pushrod tube appears to have a home-made lower half with the tappets running in a block pressed into the crankcase. Again this looks home-made.

Internals

The drive side crankcase is split across the front and down the side just above the row of bolts, presumably the result of water freezing in the crankcase. The flywheels and conrod are very rusty and the bigend is solid. The main bearings are a roller race on the timing side and two ball races on the drive side. This is the arrangement listed for a 1951 engine although in this case they are heavily rusted.

Timing case full of crud

Home-made tappet block

Drive side tide mark

Split drive side crankscase.

Rusty flywheels.

Bigend has seen better days.

            I do not plan to reuse this engine as there are too many parts such as the head and crankcase which are probably beyond repair. I have a 600 engine at the back of the shed which was running when it was replaced as it was using oil. I think this was because the conrod is slightly bent so I shall need to have a look at that.
            Out of interest I dismantled the big end, it took a two-leg puller to get it apart as it was solidly corroded.

Corroded conrod and big end.

 

 

 

 

 

 



Dismantling and Assessment.

Now it’s time to examine the pile of bits more closely.

The Frame

The frame appears to be sound with light rusting here and there. I decided to strip the paint by hand using chemical paint stripper and wished I hadn’t, it’s slow, laborious and filthy. Better to find a shot blaster but you need to blank off the headstock and swing arm bearings to avoid filling with shot sand. The swing arm bearings appear to be ok with no play.

The wheels.

The wheel rims and spokes are completely rusted out on all four wheels so I have cut all the spokes and taken out the hubs. These are ok internally, externally they and the trim discs and brake plates, indeed all the alloy parts, are white with alloy corrosion. The front brake was seized in the hub but five weeks soaking in diesel and judicious tapping got the thing apart. The alloy parts need to be bead blasted. The brake shoes and linings appear to be ok.

Scrap wheel rims

Stripped hubs

The Front Forks

The front forks are not Panther but a leading link design which may be home made. Again the angle grinder was needed to get them apart.  The pivot for the swing arm is totally rusted away leaving the swing arm attached only by the shocks. The shocks  are also quite rusty and further investigation is needed to see if they can be disassembled.

Dismantled forks

The Tinware.
Most of the tinware is badly corroded. The petrol tank is scrap with large holes where the knee grips were and with the bottom virtually gone. One petrol tap fell out with a piece of tank attached. The badges and taps may be salvageable.

Petrol tank, beyond repair?

The front mudguard was non-Panther and rusted out. It was also cut in half as we tried to get the bike into the van. The rear mudguard turned out to be a Panther front mudguard with a short length attached to make it long enough. I have an original steel rear mudguard somewhere so can make up a pair.

The tool boxes are both rotted away at their lower extremities. Since they are identical and one is mounted on the bike upside down relative to the other it may be possible to cut and shut and make one from the two. Whether my skills are adequate for that is debatable.

Shredded tool boxes

The rear chainguard has been fitting with a steel plate but looks ok. Headlight is ok complete with speedo, ammeter and panther’s head badge, as is the rear number plate. The tail light is missing.

The Primary Drive

The primary chaincase is complete but white with corrosion. The complete clutch was found in the sidecar boot and is fairly rusted. It has been derusted in a tank of water and washing soda by passing in an electric current. I’ve not used this process before but it appears to work quite well. Search Youtube for "electrolytic rust removal" for instructions.. New chains and an engine sprocket will be needed.

Sundry Fittings

Many of the fittings came out without too much trouble apart from the lower rear sidecar fitting which is locked immovably in the boss on the rear frame. It can stay there! Other loose studs, bolts and spacers etc have been cleaned with a rotary wire brush and will be zinc plated for reuse. Damaged fittings will be replaced.

The Gearbox.

So far I only have the kickstart case off but the internals look to be in good condition although again the alloy case is white with corrosion. The short clutch pushrod was noticeable by its absence. Further investigation is required.

The Engine.
That’s another story for another day!